THE "PÊRA PASSA" IN SERRA DA ESTRELA: FROM SHEPHERDS' FOOD TONIC TO AN ENDANGERED GASTRONOMIC PRODUCT?
Abstract
The connections of the different stages of production, transformation, and distribution of the pêra passa to some of the municipalities of the current Geopark of Serra da Estrela, namely those of Seia, Gouveia, Oliveira do Hospital and Tábua have been explored by the literature in terms of historical, economic and edaphoclimatic relations with this territory. Closely linked to an ecosystem characterized by family production, this product is closely linked to the intensive manual work of an already elderly population. There are references, mainly oral and commercial narratives, which associate its consumption with the main actors of transhumance and the pastoralism culture of Serra da Estrela – the shepherds. This association is due to its nutritional characteristics and the possibility of conservation.
However, it is currently difficult to buy this product in these territories due to the scarcity of its production, being its sale mainly intended for other parts of the country, as was the case around 100 years ago.
The etymological link to Viseu (since it is often called “Pêra Passa de Viseu”), makes reference to and takes advantage of its history and prime distribution location to complete its most common name due to the free fair that was held there. Despite this fact, all the characteristics are due to the relations already mentioned.
The pêra passa has a potential for differentiation due to its high quality and the regional symbology it entails, re-emerging in this condition in the regional and national gastronomic and tourist scene. The dried pear is now understood as a product with characteristics that can be included in the list of quality certification schemes for food products.
By now, initiatives for industrial improvement, for the gastronomic use of the product, or the promotion and enhancement of tourism by organizations of any kind are unknown.
The exploratory study that is being undertaken also seeks to understand potential links between the pêra passa and the diet of shepherds, aiming to set the scene to its tourist, gastronomic and economic use.
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